Rhum T from Taha’a a double wager on sugarcane
- il y a 5 jours
- 5 min de lecture
Multi-awarded at the Concours Général Agricole in Paris, the Domaine Pari Pari proudly carries the colors of its island. Its roots run deep—into both the fa’a’apu and the hearts of local households—thanks to twenty years of dedication. From cane cultivation to bottling, everything is done on the island of Taha’a.
© Text: Gaëlle Poyade - Photo: Jean-Marie Gravot
The story of Domaine Pari Pari begins with the curiosity of a Bordeaux native from a family of winemakers. A wine and spirits importer in Paris, Laurent Masseron already had a passion for rum—particularly that of Martinique.
One day in 1996, the very year the Martinique AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée1) was created, he decided to study its official specifications more closely. To his astonishment, he discovered that the original document described rum made from the Otahiti sugarcane variety—the very plant that had once replaced the small Creole cane.
“I was intrigued—astonished, really—and decided to follow the trail of this great traveler, the Otahiti, and to rediscover the many ancient varieties connected to it,” he recalls.
After researching the sugarcane sector in Polynesia, Masseron and his family moved to the Vanilla Island in 2005. Ten years of patient work followed: testing different cane varieties and soils, experimenting with distillation techniques, and refining his vision.
In 2015, he inaugurated the Pari Pari Distillery. Less than five years later, in 2019, Rhum T—crafted from organically grown sugarcane—won a gold medal at the Concours Général Agricole in Paris. “Against twenty-three competitors, including those from the Antilles!” he says with enthusiasm.
“That award was a real turning point.”
Today, the first rum distillery of the Raromata’i boasts seventeen varieties of rum—white, amber, straw, infused, and more. Its excellence was confirmed again in 2025, when Pari Pari earned four medals (out of six awarded to all of French Polynesia) at the prestigious Paris competition.
Awake the sleeping beauties
In the 19th century, nearly 80% of the world’s sugarcane varieties were of Tahitian origin. Fragrant and flavorful, these canes helped establish the reputation of rum across the globe.
Yet Polynesian rum itself had long been forgotten. Once considered a humble drink for plantation workers—a simple thirst-quencher between cane harvests—it had fallen entirely into obscurity. “The last bottle labeled Rhum Tahiti dated back to the 1960s,” notes Laurent Masseron. “After that, nothing! But locals still kept the old cane varieties alive at home for their sweet juice—and also thanks to rā’au Tahiti, our traditional plant-based medicine.”
Tender and richly aromatic, these ancestral varieties form the basis of fourteen sugarcane types cultivated by Domaine Pari Pari. The distillery produces exclusively agricultural rums—made from pure sugarcane juice, not molasses—a method that accounts for only 5% of rum production worldwide².
Jobs for 80 families on Taha'a
Although Domaine Pari Pari cultivates 12 hectares of land—six dedicated to sugarcane and six to vanilla, ginger, turmeric, bananas, lemons, passion fruit, and cacao—this isn’t enough to supply the 600 tons of cane required for its annual production. The distillery therefore sources additional quantities from around 60 growers across the island. Each represents a family whose livelihood is directly tied to the distillery.
In addition to permanent agricultural workers, seasonal cane cutters, and drivers who collect the cane directly from the farms, Pari Pari employs 14 full-time staff members at its distillation and visitor center. “Nearly 80 households on Taha’a earn a significant part of their income through the distillery’s operations,” explains its director. “But the work is labor-intensive—mechanization remains limited. My only concern is the shrinking active population. The workforce is aging, and with so few young people interested in agriculture, I worry we may one day run short of helping hands.”
Sidebar – Oils, Soaps, and Flours: A Growing Boutique
Like a Polynesian octopus extending its arms, the Pari Pari distillery has branched out into the food and cosmetics industries, fully harnessing local resources such as coconut, tamanu, and vanilla.
Pressed coconuts produce fresh, premium-grade cosmetic and culinary oils. The remaining dry pulp, or tourteau, is turned into coconut flour, while the sediment from oil decanting is repurposed into handmade soaps. Even the shells are transformed into charcoal, bagged and sold locally.
A similar approach applies to tamanu: its oil, balm, and soaps are made in-house, and the fragrant shells are used to mulch the distillery’s gardens. As for vanilla—grown exclusively outdoors—it is cured onsite and incorporated into a variety of culinary products.
Adding up the 17 rum references, the boutique now offers around 35 products, including powdered turmeric and ginger, vanilla beans and vanilla-infused vinegar or sugar, coconut and banana flours, honey, and cocoa nibs ready to snack on.
Coming Soon: A “Rhum de Polynésie” Geographical Indication
Committed to full traceability from field to glass, Domaine Pari Pari—member of the Polynesian Rum Producers’ Union—has already implemented a bottle labeling system to track each batch. This traceability will be key to the upcoming Protected Geographical Indication (PG) for Rhum de Polynésie, expected to be officially recognized soon.
This PGI, dedicated to rum made from pure Polynesian cane juice, aims to protect the craftsmanship of local producers while preventing misleading or fraudulent use of the terms Tahiti, Polynesia, or fenua.
Organic—deeply, passionately
All 12 hectares of farmland are certified Bio Pasifika, meaning every bottle of Rhum T is made from organically grown sugarcane. “I was the first certified organic farmer on Taha’a,” says the agricultural engineer, who first practiced market gardening between 2005 and 2015 while waiting for his sugarcane to mature. “But organic without environmental responsibility is just bio-business,” he warns.
As a signatory of the Challenges for a Sustainable Fenua charter, Domaine Pari Pari upholds 16 key principles promoting sustainable development. The distillery runs almost entirely on solar energy, producing around 40,000 kW per year, and its elegant, sturdy bottles are returnable. Although Polynesian customers play along, the return rate remains low due to the large number of foreign visitors.
Persistent and optimistic, the founder of the Raromata’i distillery believes in the future of Polynesian rum. “Sugarcane is an easy crop to grow—even organically—and yields ten times more per hectare than coconuts,” he emphasizes. Together with his fellow distillers, Laurent Masseron hopes to see sugarcane cultivation expand tenfold across French Polynesia, reaching 1,000 hectares by 2050.
Fare Miti, Rum bar & tapas lounge
Opened in 2022 in the serene bay of Tapuamu, Fare Miti is a floating bar with a clear mission: to showcase local ingredients while offering an alternative to the classic roulottes. You won’t find poisson cru or chow mein here, but instead smoked tuna, grilled swordfish, and beautifully crafted toast platters enhanced with fresh herbs and crunchy delights like banana chips.
As the sun sets over the lagoon, this unique spot offers the perfect moment to sample the full range of Rhum T—from Monday to Sunday—while soaking up the magic of Taha’a’s golden twilight.
Organic—deeply, passionately
All 12 hectares of farmland are certified Bio Pasifika, meaning every bottle of Rhum T is made from organically grown sugarcane. “I was the first certified organic farmer on Taha’a,” says the agricultural engineer, who first practiced market gardening between 2005 and 2015 while waiting for his sugarcane to mature. “But organic without environmental responsibility is just bio-business,” he warns.
As a signatory of the Challenges for a Sustainable Fenua charter, Domaine Pari Pari upholds 16 key principles promoting sustainable development. The distillery runs almost entirely on solar energy, producing around 40,000 kW per year, and its elegant, sturdy bottles are returnable. Although Polynesian customers play along, the return rate remains low due to the large number of foreign visitors.
Persistent and optimistic, the founder of the Raromata’i distillery believes in the future of Polynesian rum. “Sugarcane is an easy crop to grow—even organically—and yields ten times more per hectare than coconuts,” he emphasizes. Together with his fellow distillers, Laurent Masseron hopes to see sugarcane cultivation expand tenfold across French Polynesia, reaching 1,000 hectares by 2050.