The Countess's Ceremonies at La Plage. A Polynesian Banquet in an 18th-Century setting

“On September 5, 2025, dive into an immersive experience that will awaken all your senses under the starry auti night sky, in the enchanting setting of the restaurant Tahiti La Plage.” The invitation promised an evening to remember. And on the day itself, the tables gleamed beneath the soft light of dusk — adorned with Toile de Jouy linens, decorative plates painted with hunting scenes, and polished silverware that caught the last rays of the sun. In the center, glass candelabras refracted the sunset glow. The stage was set for the Countess’s Ceremonies.Let the feast begin…

© Texte & Photos: Doris Ramseyer

The guests arrive, graceful and elegant, greeted first by the soaring, velvety notes of violins, then by cocktails — La Plume de Cognac and La Reine des Îles. The first blends fine French brandy with Tahitian ginger beer, honoring Pierre Loti, the traveling writer and romantic admirer of The Islands of Tahiti.The second, a Mai Tai adorned with hibiscus petals, pays homage to Queen Pōmare IV.

Cocktails and Starters « ’Amu ’Amu Ra’a »

The evening celebrates the meeting, in 1872, of the queen and the writer — a reminder of the enduring friendship between Polynesia and France. Alix de La Marnierre created the Countess’s Ceremonies in the spirit of her ancestor Louise, born in the late 18th century, to promote the art de vivre à la française.

Inaugurated at Château de la Roche-Courbon in May 2025, these narrative and immersive dinners of the Enlightenment are true human and culinary adventures. Each event brings together local artisans who strive for excellence, blending the refinement of French culture with the soul of the host country.

Waiters with Toile de Jouy scarves tied around their necks move gracefully among the guests, offering delicate appetizers: cherry tomato cheesecake with fresh goat cheese, crispy broccoli bites, and coconut bread topped with roasted mango burrata and rosemary cream.A promising overture to the evening’s symphony…

Let’s step inside the kitchen, where excitement hums like a prelude to an aria.

Everyone knows their part in this culinary symphony, conducted by Chef Bénédicte Massonnet.

“Make way, the roast pork is coming!”A hundred kilos of tender, steaming, mouthwatering meat — carried by several strong arms — are swiftly laid out on the counter.

Marinated the day before in oyster and soy sauce with dried orange peel, five-spice powder, freshly ground pepper, ginger, and star anise, the pork was wrapped in auti leaves and slow-cooked in an ahimā‘a, the traditional earth oven.

Now portioned and arranged in trays woven from nī‘au palm leaves, each serving is covered with sacred auti leaves — the emblem of the evening.

An exquisite tuna tartare with passion fruit and a light wasabi emulsion will accompany this delicately smoked, slow-cooked feast.

Menus « Motu Fenua and Motu Moana »

The mā‘a Tahiti — traditional Tahitian fare — naturally imposed itself as the heart of the evening’s theme. Chef Bénédicte confides with a smile, “My team, one hundred percent Polynesian, was overflowing with energy that day! It was their cuisine. They cooked with their hearts and their guts!”

That instinctive enthusiasm touched her deeply and inspired her to weave even more local flavors into her next menu. For her, this event is also a way to honor and pass down to her young team members their heritage, their culture, and the living ties that unite their islands to mainland France.

Organizing such a ceremony is no small feat. “I don’t thrive on convenience — I love stepping outside the box!” she admits.

Welcoming nearly a hundred guests in the middle of matari‘i i raro, the season of scarcity, was a challenge.Vegetables had to be gathered bit by bit along the roadside: breadfruit, sweet potatoes, pumpkin.The taro came from the Marquesas. As for fē‘ī bananas — none to be found!

But perseverance is second nature to Bénédicte.Miraculously, she tracked down plantains at the very last minute — on the morning of the event itself!

The chef delights in the taro’s unique, nutty flavor and floury texture.“I love an ingredient for what it is — I don’t want to hide it.”

Instead of dairy cream, coconut milk brings a subtle touch to her taro risotto with Périgord truffles.Coconut milk, she points out, runs throughout the entire buffet:“It’s our version of cream — it’s vegan, light, and aids digestion!”

Breadfruit (‘uru) appears in every form imaginable — chips, fries, mash, even dessert.Her favorite? The ‘uru espuma:“It lightens that dense texture beautifully!”

And the tonka bean?“It’s an extraordinary spice — perfect with mautini, rice, soups, even desserts!”

Desserts « Motu Mona Mona »

In the dining room, the evening continues with an elegant capsule fashion show by designer Gaëlle F, followed by an emotional ceremony: the symbolic presentation of a Neanderthal adze, offered by the owners of Château de la Roche-Courbon to the Pōmare family and the people of Tahiti.

Pur"e bliss!

Meanwhile, in the kitchen, most desserts are ready — each a miniature masterpiece.

Coconut and lime calissons, madeleines de Proust sweetened with Marquesan honey, Louis d’or chocolate coins stamped with the Countess’s Ceremonies insignia, and banana macarons infused with Mana‘o dark rum and Tahitian vanilla. “Macarons are the most temperamental treats in French pastry!” exclaims Bénédicte. “They hate humidity! The syrup has to be at just the right temperature — and so does the oven!”

Pastry chefs delicately place raspberries into each chocolate pearl, set on shimmering shells — the restaurant’s signature dessert, soon to be drizzled with warm Vanuatu chocolate sauce. Pure bliss! Then, with meticulous care, they craft an edible work of art: chocolate pearls strung into golden necklaces and rings. Filled with caramelized dried bananas, raspberries, or milk chocolate, these creations look astonishingly like real pearls — meant to dazzle the eye before melting on the tongue.

Pearls to dream over. Pearls to admire. Pearls to savor.